One of them is in Tibet, China (Shishapangma), three in Nepal (Annapurna, Dhaulagiri and Manaslu), and one in Pakistan (Nanga Parbat). Another four are on the boundary between China and Nepal (Makalu, Lhotse, Qomolangma and Qowowuyag), four on the boundary between China and Pakistan (Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum I, Broad and Qogir), and one on the boundary between Nepal and India (Kangchengjunga).
In the 1980s, under the situation that more and more “mountain friends” from home and abroad were coming to Tibet to climb mountains, Tibet Mountaineering Team successfully climbed Qowowuyag and Noijin Kangsang etc. on their own, and participated on behalf of our nation in many major international mountaineering activities such as China-Japan-Nepal joint two-way cross of Qomolangma in 1988, China-US-Soviet Peace Mountaineering Team climbing Qomolangma in 1990 and China-Japan joint climb of Namjagbarwa from 1991 to 1992, etc. The commanders and mountaineers have gained rich experience from those activities and have been qualified to climb all high peaks around the world.
Thus, an ambitious plan came into being: to climb all the 14 peaks higher than 8000 meters around the world for the Chinese nation’s glory and for China’s becoming a world mountaineering power!
This ambitious plan was approved by the People’s Government of Tibet Autonomous Region on April 16th, 1992.
Then, an expedition team in Tibet climbing the world's 14 peaks above 8000 meters was founded. 10 mountaineers and 2 support staffs including the exploration captain Sangzhu, vice captain Wangjia, climbing captain Cirenduoji, team members Jiabu, Daqimi, Daqiong, Bianbazhaxi, Renna, Luoze, both team member and photographer Akebu, team doctor Luosangyundeng and interpreter Zhang Mingxing (substituted by Musa and Puburenci later) were selected for the team. Together they formed a mountaineering expedition team which is superior in force, strong in mind, comprehensive in techniques and rich in experience.
Reaching the summit of Gasherbrum I, 2007
The long journey of 14 peaks expedition team in Tibet started from Lhasa on March 15th, 1993, and came to an end at the time of 12:20, on July.12th, 2007, when Bianbazhaxi, Cirenduoji and Luoze stood on the summit of Gasherbrum I, 8086 meters above the sea level, which signaled the 14 peaks expedition team in Tibet accomplishing the climb of 14 peaks above 8000 meters. This was the most memorable day in Chinese mountaineering history, and the 14 peaks expedition team in Tibet also became the first team in the world to climb 14 peaks above 8000 meters in the form of a community.
In the fourteen years from 1993 to 2007, all the obscure efforts made by these Tibetan mountaineers, their stories, experiences, and the each and every steps they’ve made to the summits, can be an epic.
Ten years later, Tibet Mountaineering School held a grand commemorative event in memory of the 10th anniversary of Chinese Mountaineering Team climbing 14 peaks higher than 8000 meters on Jul 12th, 2017.
Looking back to the journeys to those summits, Bianbazhaxi, aged 52 now, said with excitement at the ceremony: “This success proves China’s power on mountaineering.”
All of the 14 peaks higher than 8000 meters are located on the Himalayas and Karakoram Mountains. Before Tibet Mountaineering Team, there were only more than ten people around the world who had climbed these 14 peaks in personal names. Three Tibetan climbers’ ascent to those peaks ten years ago, made China, the emerging mountaineering country, became
a member of the “14-peak club” for the first time.The pursuit to the fourteen summits during the fourteen years intertwined glories and grieves. On May 27th, 2005, when the expedition team was heading to the first camping site on Gasherbrum I in Pakistan, their car was hit by rolling stones. During the accident, one of the main members, Renna, died from a hit on his head, and Bianbazhaxi was badly hurt. Plateau Eagle folded his wings on Karakorum.
Bianbazhaxi (the left one) being awarded
“Today should have been a day for celebration, but I’m here with a heavy heart.” Bianbazhaxi said, “ Renna is my best partner. Without his presence, I feel as if an important part missed for the celebration. Like a new clothes with improper sleeves and missing a button.” Sad memories about his good friend are still in his heart even after a decade.
Though the accident left Bianbazhaxi with severe sequelae, he accomplished his last climbing with superior willpower in 2007. He has been suffering from his deaf right ear and partly-paralysis on his facial muscle until now even after he received several operation treatments in the interior land.
However, Bianbazhaxi said, he has never regretted for his choice of climbing mountains.
“I’m from rural area, and I had been in school for only 3 years. I learned Chinese and other knowledge only after I joined the climbing team at the age of 19.” he said, “Getting close to the nature and joining the climbing team have changed my life. I am so proud that I can earn honor for my country.”
The essence of Tibet Mountaineering Team is to “be fearless of dangers, stay strong, work in team, head to top and always put country at the first place” At the Commemorative activity, the party secretary of Xizang Sports Bureau said: “ Tibet Mountaineering Team is a heroic team. They have been heading to the clouds for their dreams for five decades, testing their limits. They have not only completed significant mountaineering tasks, broken world mountaineering records, but also created a valuable spiritual wealth.
the mountaineering team being awarded
Founded in 1996, OZARK began to support 8000-meter mountain expedition team in Tibet in 1997, sponsored Tibet Mountaineering School in 1999, began to support Shengshan Adventure Company in 2002, assisted the transferring of Olympic torch on Qomolangma in 2008 and witnessed young athletes accomplish “7+2” Challenge in 2016. We have seen mountaineering heroes with grey hair, and our new generation from Mountaineering School aged 15 or 16. We have also seen OZARK clothing and equipment of all eras. As the earliest and most professional outdoor brand, OZARK was connected with Tibet since its beginning point. OZARK is second to none in promoting the development of Chinese mountaineering industry. We experience inheritance and responsibilities here, and we respect the past while focusing on the future.
the group photo of the old and the young climbers
OZARK equipment on site
OZARK and 14 peaks
OZARK and 14 peaks
